By Pieter de Lange

After three long Covid years, we were finally able to return to South Africa for a long holiday. We were very excited about the prospect but also somewhat apprehensive. How were things going to look after the widespread and destructive recent unrest only a few months ago? At one stage it had looked as if there was going to be nothing left. We quickly set all the negative thoughts aside and started making serious plans to see all the close family and friends. Our people are all located over and we drove over 4 500 km through five different provinces to reach everyone.

We started in Pretoria, where we visited family in Wierda Park and I had my first serious steak at Buffelsfontein Boereplaas in Menlo Park with Sue-Ann and Alana. The portion of meat that was served in a screw or vice was excellent, but I was not able to finish it in one sitting. So, it was actually two meals in one. The rest of the menu looked just as interesting.

The Lowveld calls

There is always a specific excitement when you take the road to the Lowveld. This time we were privileged to see this part of the world at its most beautiful after the bountiful rains. We visited Mjejane, a private resort on the Crocodile River where we visited with our Hatting family from Kroonstad, Quartus and Martie. It was great to spend time in the swimming pool every day. There is also an outdoor gym with sophisticated equipment which stands outside exposed to the elements, seemingly unused. We really enjoyed the visit but the monkeys were a nuisance. While sitting and having coffee, they jumped on the table and one grabbed my rusk. In a reflex movement I threw him with my hot coffee, after which they made a quick getaway.

Consternation on the Crocodile Bridge

After this, we departed for Croc Bridge Lodge, about 50 metres from the Kruger National Park’s border. We were very glad to finally be there, after paying the deposit two years ago before everything closed down. The comfortable chalets have a view over the Crocodile River and every afternoon we were visited by an elephant bull that walked past the fence, grazing on the riverbank. It was easy to recognise him, since he had one tooth that pointed upward with the other having a clean downward curve. One day on our way back from a game drive in the park we saw that all the cars on the Crocodile Bridge had come to a standstill. The reason: our elephant with the up and down teeth. The old bull was on the far side of the bridge where he calmly started making his way onto the bridge. The vehicle in front was in a predicament, because it is a narrow bridge and when this animal approaches it would be best to get out of its way. Unfortunately, by that time the whole bridge was already filled with cars and naturally the people at the back were none the wiser. The wife of the guy right ahead if us started screaming “Go back,” and when that did not work, her companion, red in the face, did the same. After a few long, agonising minutes the urgent message gradually reached the cars at the back and they started reversing. The elephant patiently waited until the bridge was cleared before making a ninety degrees turn and continuing on his route parallel to the river. One cannot wonder whether he thought it was a game to play with the terrified motorists.

The beautiful Tradouw Pass

After the Kruger Park we flew down to George, where I had timeshare to use at Sedgefield. There are so many memories in the south eastern Cape that we actually needed longer than a week there. We once again visited the unique Birds of Eden close to Plettenberg Bay and spent a lovely morning there. A nice swim at Buffelsbaai is also always high on the agenda and we then stopped for a quick meal at Riverdeck while en route. We were also able to see family in George and friends in Brenton.

 

We then drove down to Cape Town, which was an adventure in itself, where we stayed in Strand. We were on the regular route on our way to Cape Town that goes from Mossel Bay over Albertinia and Riversdal, when we spotted a road sign towards Barrydale. I then recalled a patient who had often mentioned a place they had in Riversdal, telling me they were really looking forward to retiring there. She had unfortunately passed away a few months before our holiday. As soon as I saw the name Barrydale, I told Mariaan we should go and see what it looked like. So we turned off at Heidelberg and soon found ourselves on a dejected dirt road full of dongas leading to Barrydale. It felt like an eternity before we found the tarred road again and started driving through the Tradouw Pass. Our heads were turning and our mouths hung open in amazement about the magnificent views. Spectacular mountains, rocks and valleys, it was never-ending. We were almost tired by the time we reached Barrydale. First the awful tar road and then the beautiful pass. Barrydale is small, but colourful and friendly. Coffee and socialising were at the order of the day. By the time we visited the final spot, I was so relaxed that I did not even lock the car and also forgot to close the windows. The owner of the pizza and microbrewery told us that they usually get al lot of business from tourist buses and route from the Cango caves to Cape Town, but have been quiet recently. After our visit, we drove to the Strand through the historic Montagu and Swellendam.

Strand Pavilion

Here we felt like royalty in a beautiful three-bedroom unit with a wide view over the beach and the deep sea. We caught up with people who we know from our time in Gauteng and who are now staying in the Western Cape. Our friends who used to live in Kiyv have now retired in the Strand. Iaan used to be an ambassador to the Ukraine, and these days he is often approached for commentary or to give speeches because of his knowledge of the Ukraine and its surrounding countries. Through the Bassons we once again discovered an eccentric restaurant, called Jam and Pyjamas. We spent the Sunday with my Van der Vyver family in Constantia. Although they are now Modenas en Wrights, for me they are still the Van der Vyvers. We also visited the Boschendal wine farm where one of the family Dominique, is a winemaker. 

Maputaland

From there we flew to Durban in order to drive up to visit the Tembe Elephant Park, close to the Mozambique border, spending some time with Mariaan’s brother Kobus. The journey up north got wilder the further we went, with a constant stream of school children, goats, pigs, chicken etc. on and around a very sparse tar road. The permanent tents at Tembe have good air conditioning and the outside shower is a unique feature. What a pleasure to stand outdoors and listen to the birds and experience the smells of the bush with water washing over your body. Every evening there was a venison dish on the menu and interestingly enough, the warthog was the best. On our way back we stopped at the Jozini Dam, which was also developed as a tourist destination, mainly for tiger fishing and functions and conferences at the large hotel with its beautiful view over the water. The day or two at Kobus and Sonja in Mtunzini was rejuvenating. 

Mozambique to the Transkei

Afterwards we had to drive down to Port Edward, near the Transkei, to Mariaan’s sister, Tillie.   

We once again stayed in a time share resort, Carribean Estates. It is a large, beautiful establishment with lush tropical vegetation and several units of different sizes. We were surprised to learn that, neither the resort nor the town had Wi-Fi. We had to go to the Wild Coast Casino for Wi-Fi, which then turned out to be a nice outing on its own.  

From Port Edward, the two of us headed for Ladysmith where we stayed over at Quintus en Marina’s home. Quintus showed us around their paper bag factory which has grown into a huge business. The paper pulp for the potato bags comes either from the Nordic countries like Norway, or from Bulgaria or Russia. Quintus was uncertain how the war would influence their Russian order at that stage. Quintus also has De Lange blood from his grandmother’s side and has succeeded in getting Hans Dons’ old cell door as well as the beam from which he was supposedly hanged, and incorporate it into his house.

Even Harrysmith was green

On our way back to Pretoria we drove through the Free State and it was noticeably green and beautiful after all the rains. My friend Johan and I were enjoying a meaty breakfast at Wood Hill Estates’ golf club after a stiff 4 km jog, when it once again hit me what great value it was for someone who gets paid in pounds. For £3,20 you will only be able to buy a large coffee in the UK.

Only near the end we were able to get a few days to spend at our own home in Leeupoort in Limpopo. It was pure bliss! After our six week long visit we tried postponing our flight back, but it was unfortunately not possible. We at least managed to visit with our Botswana friends, who now live comfortably in Warmbad.

Can you fall in love with your own country all over again? Yes, definitely. The fact that we haven’t been here in a very long time, as well as all the fact that there are new routes and mountain passes, have added another dimension to our visit. There are also countless creative art and food stalls along the main routes, you have to prevent yourself from stopping at every single one of them.

Tourism have obviously become a huge industry and many more people are reliant on it. There was a slogan back in the days that was used to entice overseas tourists to visit South Africa, suggesting “See South Africa, a World in One Country”. The sharp contrast between the Western Cape and KwaZulu-Natal already explains this slogan. I thought that Natal would be somewhat of an anticlimax after the Western Cape’s wonderful mountains, but it turns out that the Indian Ocean coastline has its own unique charm. 

What do people say? 

We never once felt unsafe, and it was noticeable how communities work together to curb crime. Most households have taken precautionary measures by now. Especially in the Western Cape you would see harmony – people are comfortable with each other and there is a warmth and a general friendliness. In Gauteng people kind of tolerate each other, yes, we have to manage. It was nice to spend some time to walk around in the neighbourhoods and chat here and there. In Sedgefield, for instance, there was a rural tranquillity. Wierda Park in Pretoria, felt more abuzz, but there were families outside walking around or driving on bicycles, and both these places are neat with beautiful vegetation. I felt it was a place where I could live. People seem to care about their neighbourhoods. Of course, you see everything through an optimistic holiday spirit lens when you are touring around and having a good time, but the quality of life is still excellent for someone with a reasonable income. I have already started to consider options for next time, such as maybe doing the whole R62 from Humansdorp. What about the Kgalagadi in the Kalahari or the Skukuza half-marathon? We have never seen the flowers in Namaqualand. My head is spinning with possibilities.

Until next time.

Pieter de Lange