Out and about is a column where we talk to people who currently live abroad, or who have previously lived and worked there but are back in South Africa. We would love to hear from anyone who would like to share their experiences.

This week we chat with Adri van Eck, who lives in Tavira, Algarve, in Portugal.

What made you decide to leave South Africa – and why Portugal in particular?

It was just me, my Scottie dog and three suitcases that went to Portugal. My decision was based on the fact that my child and grandchildren live in the Netherlands – now I am much closer to them. I try to visit them every three months.

Why did you specifically choose Tavira over other parts of Portugal?

I initially landed in Lisbon, north of Lisbon, in a beautifully restored wine cellar where I isolated myself for a few weeks – this was during the pandemic.

Then I moved south and lived for a while in Sagres, the westernmost point of Portugal. Next, I lived in Vilamoura, a lovely town with a beautiful harbour. Later I lived in various places in Tavira and eventually bought a small apartment here. There was no specific reason why I ended up in Tavira – it just worked out that way.

Tell us more about your family.

My daughter passed away eight years ago, and it completely drained me. I decided to retire as a teacher and build my future with my son and granddaughters.

How did you approach emigration? Was it difficult to start the process?

The process wasn’t particularly difficult, but it was long and frustrating with lots of administrative hurdles. There were a lot of phone calls, paperwork, driving – and then of course the procedures regarding my dog: lengthy vet tests that included a lot of paperwork. I did everything myself without an agent, but later realised I wasn’t really saving any money.

What emotions did you experience in the time before departure?

My emotions were more focused on the hope of getting emigration approval, rather than on what I was leaving behind. It was only later that reality began to sink in.

What was the biggest challenge when you first arrived?

My biggest concern was my dog: is she safe, was she transferred to the right flight, how is she feeling? I had to balance her large cage and three suitcases on a trolley – it was exhausting. And then the language – after four years I am still struggling with it.

What do you love most about Tavira – is it the scenery, the sense of community or something else?

Tavira is a lovely, beautiful town. It is also a very popular retirement town. People from all over the world live here, especially Americans and English. The Gilão River runs through the town. Tavira is located next to the sea, but you have to cross the Ria Formosa to get to the beach. The Ria Formosa is more like a lake than a river and stretches over many kilometres. We use boats to row across to the beach; one beach even has a nice little train that can take you there or you can walk for about 2 km to get to the beach. Tavira is very quiet in winter. The Portuguese shop owners will simply close their shops during winter. In summer it is usually bustling. There are holidaymakers, festivals, carnivals, markets, etc. The weather is of course very hot and humid, something like the South Coast in South Africa in December! Tavira is about 40 km from the Spanish border.

You have an Afrikaans circle of friends that consists of 32 people, and you hang out once a month. Tell us more?

It’s an interesting story! Three years ago, I asked on an online group if there was anyone who spoke Afrikaans. I then met a lovely woman and her husband.

In January 2025 I sold some of my household goods. An Afrikaner bought my mattress, and a week later another Afrikaner bought my dining room table. (I had my own things brought from the Netherlands, which I sent with my son’s crate.) In the shopping mall a family heard us speaking Afrikaans, at the Portuguese language evening classes an Afrikaner sat next to us. I then started a WhatsApp group and everyone added friends again. Today we are a group of 32 people who get together once a month – whether it’s braaiing in the mountains or drinking coffee together in the shopping mall.

What is everyday life like there? What do you do on a typical Saturday?

It has a “holiday feeling” because you drink coffee on the sidewalks and have to take a boat to the sea or take the train to town. There are also many stalls with clothes and all kinds of trinkets for sale on the streets. Sometimes there is not even a cashier in sight. Nothing is taken here that is not yours. People also do not wait for the Boeing to fly over. It is common to see a beer on the table early in the morning. People often only socialise from 11 o’ clock in the evening until the early morning hours.

How do the cost of living and accommodation options in Portugal compare to those in South Africa?

For someone who earned in rand, it is expensive. Rents go up drastically in the summer – you won’t find anything under €800 a week. In the winter it drops again by up to €300. In the countryside it is cheaper, but there are other challenges. Water and electricity are cheap – I pay less than €20 a month, and train rides are cheap. I have free medical care, even though it is a frustrating process.

Is there anything you wish you had known earlier about the emigration process?

I put a few items in my son’s crate. It was unnecessary, I shouldn’t have brought anything over.

What cultural differences surprised or challenged you?

I have adapted to the slow pace of the Portuguese. No one is in a hurry here, because apparently tomorrow (and next week) is another day. Trains and people are almost always late – a Portuguese is always late, always! I have lost my cell phone three times – each time someone returned it.

Most Portuguese in the Algarve can speak English, but far fewer people in the north of Portugal can. And as in many countries, immigrants are not always welcome.

What is your favourite dish you have had in Portugal? How does the food differ from that in South Africa?

The pastel de nata – a small milk tart – is delicious! But South African food remains the most delicious for me. Burgers here are just a patty and chips. Fish is served with head and tail, and meat is chopped into pieces – often with bits of bone in it. Spices are rare compared to South Africa.

Do you still speak Afrikaans to each other? What South African traditions do you teach your grandchildren? What Afrikaans resources do you use?

My son and I and my friends speak Afrikaans to each other. I bought a lot of Afrikaans storybooks for my grandchildren, even before they were born, and packed them in their crates. My grandchildren speak three languages, but unfortunately not Afrikaans, because Grandma does not see them often enough.

What would you call your emigration chapter in your life?

I think I’m a very brave woman.

Is there anything else you would like to share with us?

Never romanticise emigration. Leaving your country, language and people behind is one of the hardest (and most bitter) things you will ever do. I will forever yearn, hanker and long for my country. It was very difficult in the beginning, but now I am settled – and I visit my family and friends in South Africa every year. Next year I can even apply for citizenship!